الفهرس 
INTRODUCTIONOnly 14 pages are availabe for public view
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Abstract
SUMMARY
Pigment printing is not only the oldest but also the
easiest printing method as far as simplicity of application is.
Textile printing is branch of the wet processing industry that
is extensively used for all fabrics as well as fashion. Mostly,
printing is some form of dyeing in which the colors are
applied to specific areas instead of the entire fabric. Printing
paste contains pigments, thickeners, binders, and auxiliaries.
Binders are essential components in pigment paste where it
binds the pigment to the fabric into continuous system and
form film when dried. For many years, improving the
quality of pigment prints was the main goal in product
development. Lately, economic, environmental and
toxicological considerations have become more important.
Aim of work
Binders are high molecular weight film forming
agents produced by the polymerization of simple
intermediates initially present in the paste in a
homogeneous, dissolved or dispersed state.
This work is devoted to utilization of cheap renewable
waste materials to prepare binder used in pigment printing of
selected textile materials. The prepared binder would be an
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alternative to the commercially produced binder which is
environmentally unfriendly imported by foreign currency.
Consequently, this work aims at preparation,
characterization and utilization of new binder from cheap
waste keratinous materials; namely coarse Egyptian wool
fleece and feather. The prepared binder is utilized as a
binder in pigment printing of polyester, poly acrylonitril,
viscose, polyester/viscose and polyester/poly acrylonitril.
This aim was achieved by dissolution of the said
keratinous materials using cheap, available ecologically
accepted reagents viz. NaOH, Sr(OH)2, urea, thiourea,
peracetic acid and preparation of soluble-keratin (So-KBB),
nano-keratin (N-KBB) and suspended-keratin (Su-KBB)
from the extracted keratin.
The obtained keratinous materials are then used as
binders in pigment printing paste in presence and absence of
different plasticizers viz. polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) or
polyethylene glycol (PEG) and different cross-linkers,
namely gluterdialdhyde (GLU) and epichlorohydrin (ECH).
The color strength and fastness properties of the prints
are assessed. Chemical, physical, spectroscopic and
microscopic analyses of the prepared soluble-keratin, nanokeratin
and suspended-keratin were conducted.
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168
1. Preparation of soluble-keratin based binder (So-KBB)
• Soluble-keratin based binder was prepared by
dissolution of wool fleece or feather using
different concentrations of NaOH and Sr(OH)2 in
presence and absence of urea and thiourea at
different reaction conditions.
• Dissolution was took place also using different
concentration of peracetic acid at different reaction
conditions.
• The prepared sol-keratin was used as a binder in
pigment printing paste with different concentration
at different thermo-fixation conditions.
• Different proportions of So-KBB and commercial
binder (CB) were prepared and utilized in pigment
printing
• The efficiency of So-kBB aass a binder in pigment
printing was compared with that of commercial
binder (CB).
2. Preparation of nano-keratin based binder (N-KBB)
• The obtained soluble keratin from dissolution of
wool fleece or feather is converted into nanokeratin
physically.
• Nano-keratin was then used as a binder in the
pigment printing paste with different
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concentrations and at different thermo-fixation
conditions.
• Mixture of N-KBB and CB, using different
proportions were utilized as a binder in pigment
printing.
3. Preparation of suspended-keratin based binder (Su-
KBB)
• The prepared powdered keratin was used to form
suspended-keratin using low concentrations of
urea, NaOH, and different keratin concentrations.
• The prepared Suspended-keratin was then used as
a binder in pigment printing paste with different
concentration at different thermo-fixation
conditions.
• Mixing Su-KBB with the CB, in different
proportions was carried out, and this mixture was
used as a binder in pigment printing of polyester,
poly acrylonitril, viscose, polyester/viscose and
polyester/poly acrylonitril.
4. Effect of plasticizer
To impart the required flexibility and adhesion power to
the prepared soluble keratin-based binder (So-KBB),
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170
different plasticizers were used viz. polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)
and polyethylene glycol (PEG).
5. Effect of cross-linking agent
Various concentrations of cross-linkers viz. GLU and
ECH are added to pigment paste to decrease the swell-ability
of the keratin film and this will enhance the durability of the
prepared binder film to wet treatment.
6. Printing technique
The prepared binders were utlized in formulation of
pigment paste as well as a mixture of these binders in
various ratios with a commercial one, and then applied to
fabrics using flat screen technique.
7. Analyses
A) Chemical and physical characterizations of the
prepared binders were assessed. These analyses
include:
1- Elemental analysis
2- Amino acid analysis
3- Molecular weight determination
4- Infrared spectroscopy
5- Scanning electron microscopy
6- Water absorbency of the binder film
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7- Thermo-gravimetric analysis and diffraction
scanning calaoremetry
8- Measurement of the rheological properties of the
printing paste
B) characterization of the printed fabrics are made
by the following tests:-
1- Color strength (K/S) of the printed fabrics
2- Color fastness to rubbing
• Dry rubbing test
• Wet rubbing test
3- Color fastness to washing
4- Color fastness to perspiration
5- Color fastness to light
6- Fabric Stiffness
The main findings of this investigation can be
summarized in the following items:
1- Preparation of So-KBB and its utilization in pigment
printing
• Utilization of So-KBB extracted by NaOH or Sr(OH)2
in pigment printing resulted better K/S and fastness
properties of the printed fabrics than those of So-KBB
extracted by NaOH and /or Sr(OH)2 in presence of
urea, under optimum conditions of preparation (0.2 N
NaOH or Sr(OH)2 at 70 ˚C).
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• Under the used experimental conditions peracetic acid
found to have no hydrolytic effect on wool or feather
to obtain soluble keratin with short polypeptide
chains.
• So-KBB was used in pigment paste under optimum
conditions (10 % of the pigment paste, at 140 ˚C, for 4
min).
• It was noticed that using either plasticizer or crosslinker
did not improve the fastness properties of the
printed fabrics but they decreased it.
• It was also noticed that, substitution of a commercial
available binder (M.D. Binder SME-2, Acrylate –
based) with So-KBB in different proportions showed
that mixing between So-KBB and the CB enhanced
the fastness to rubbing of the printed fabrics to certain
extent and decreased the stiffness of the printed
fabrics with the commercial binders.
2- Preparation of N-KBB and its utilization in pigment
printing
• Fabrics printed with N-KBB-containing printing paste
exhibited better fastness properties and color strength
than those printed using So-KBB.
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• N-KBB was used under optimum conditions (1 % of
the printing paste, at 150 ˚C, for 4 min).
• It was noticed that, using cross-linker decreased the
color strength and the fastness properties of the printed
fabrics.
• Moreover, mixing of the CB with N-KBB improved
dry and wet rubbing fastness caused by N-KBB and
improved the stiffness of the prints caused by the CB.
3- Preparation of Su-KBB and its utilization in pigment
printing
• Fabrics printed with Su-KBB have good fastness
properties and color strength.
• Su-KBB was prepared containing 6% keratin and
used under optimum conditions (15% of the
pigment printing paste, at 140 ˚C for 4 min).
• It was noticed that, unlike So-KBB and N-KBB
using cross-linker increased the color strength and
fastness properties of the printed fabrics.
• Moreover, mixing of Su-KBB with CB improved
dry and wet rubbing fastness caused by Su-KBB
and improved the stiffness of the prints caused by
the CB.
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4- Analyses
A) Chemical and physical characterization of the
prepared binders
1. The elemental analysis of keratin-based binders
showed that there was appreciable change in the
carbon, nitrogen and hydrogen contents of wool after
being dissolved in NaOH or Sr(OH)2 as a result of the
dissolution conditions. Moreover, the amount of
sulphure decreased remarkably especially in case of
N-KBB and Su-KBB.
2. Amino acid analysis reveals that there is a sharp
decrease in most of the amino acid content in the
prepared binders as a result of the dissolution process.
3. LCMS and gel electrophoresis of the dissolved
keratinous material clarify that the average molecular
mass of So-KBB, N-KBB and Su-KBB extracted
from wool ranges between 2-9 KDa.
4. FTIR spectropscopic analyses shows that, there was
almost no change in the main chemical structure of
wool by changing it into So-KBB, N-KBB and Su-
KBB that was obvious with the presence of N H
stretching vibration band and the carbonyl group
band, although the remarkable change in their
intensity according to the preparation conditions.
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5. Studying the morphology of films of the prepared
binders So-KBB and Su-KBB, using SEM, shows that
surfaces of the films, have different nature from each
other which is correlated to the fastness properties of
the respective printed fabrics.
6. Water absorbance of the obtained films based on So-
KBB, Su-KBB and CB) were measured and the
keratin-based binders found to have water
absorbance much higher than CB (commercial
binder).
7. TGA-DSC analysis was performed to the prepared
binders, So-KBB, N-KBB, Su-KBB as well as CB.
The results revealed that CB has higher thermal
stability than keratin-based binders, till they reach to
high temperature where their thermal stabilities
approach each others.
8. Rheological measurements proved that pigment
pastes prepared using So-KBB; N-KBB and Su-KBB
are classified as non-Newtonian pseudoplastic
solutions. It was also noticed that, pastes show
thinning down, as the apparent viscosity decreases as
the rate of shear increases