الفهرس 
Knitted FabricsOnly 14 pages are availabe for public view
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Abstract
Knitted garments recently became a key component in wardrobes of Egyptian women. Many Egyptian women depend on garments made of knitted fabrics in their outer appearance because of its special properties; and one of the most important properties of knitted fabrics is flexibility. That’s why most Egyptian women use knitted fabric garments regardless of being comfortable or not.
Flexibility ensures comfort movement and coverage of more than one size for the same piece. This is why a woman of size 50 can wear a knitted fabric dress of size 46 without having a problem. But It is not an exaggeration to say that in some cases the over extension of the knitted garments and tight-fitting could cause Stretch Garment Dermatitis [82, 83].
Through observation and application it was noticed that knitwear blocks that used for knitted fabrics somehow doesn’t fit the figures of the Egyptian women; and the pattern makers are usually confused and unable to choose the suitable blocks for different knitting fabrics taking into consideration its physical and mechanical properties.
It was also noticed that Garments made from knitted fabrics are usually used to cover more than one size (known commercially as free size) so that in some cases one-piece covers three consecutive Sizes; and as a result of exposure to extreme stretching for long periods, the knitted fabrics lose appearance and its ability to return to original shape with frequent use.
According to the previous introduction, this study seeks to Develop Mathematical Relationships for evaluation of the Amount of Added- or subtracted of fitting Ease to Aldrich Basic fitting blocks for Some Weft Knitting Fabrics and It’s Fitting to the Upper Part of Egyptian Women’s bodies. To achieve this goal, the research covered the following steps:
1. Studying physical and mechanical properties of some weft knitted fabrics; and for this purpose three knitted structures (single jersey, rib1×1, interlock 1×1) were knitted with two levels of loop lengths, two yarn counts, and two different yarn material ( cotton 100%, cotton/ polyester 50:50) for each structure to produce twenty –four fabrics; eight samples for each structure.
2. The twenty- four weft knitted fabrics were tested physically and mechanically, these tests are:
• Course per cm
• Wales per cm
• Stitch density
• Fabric weight g/m2
• Thickness mm
• Bursting strength N/cm2
• Air permeability/ Cm3/cm2/sec
3. Aldrich basic fitting block was selected. This method was chosen because it is known internationally and easy to use.
4. To evaluate fitting of Aldrich basic fitting block to the Upper Part of Egyptian Women’s bodies the researcher used 12 samples were divided into three groups:
group 1:
2 samples made of single jersey knitted fabrics cotton 100% in size 48 &56.
2 samples made of Single jersey knitted fabrics 50% cotton 50% polyester in size 48 &56.
group 2
2 samples made of Rib knitted fabrics cotton 100% in size 48 &56.
2 samples made of Rib knitted fabrics 50% cotton 50% polyester in size 48 &56.
group 3
2 samples made of interlock knitted fabrics cotton 100% in size 48 &56.
2 samples made of interlock knitted fabrics 50% cotton 50% polyester in size 48&56.
5. The samples evaluated before and after alterations through wear trials on the standard mannequins in size 48& 56 according to Egyptian standard measurements for girls and ladies [80] and judged by experienced assessors using fit evaluation scale. The data obtained were statistically analyzed to identify defects in the first phase and the efficiency of the adjustments in the second phase.
6. 24 samples divided into six groups were produced in size 48 from all the tested weft knitted fabrics with the recommended alterations to Aldrich Basic fitting blocks for each knitting structure. The samples were evaluated using fit evaluation scale and results used to:
First: studying the effect of knitting variables and some physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics on block fitting
Second: Identify the Mathematical Relationships between the amount of Added- or subtracted of fitting Ease to Aldrich Basic fitting blocks and its relation to the physical and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics used.
Third: Studying the fit problems and fabric deformation for knitted garments when stretching during wear. Evaluation was through wear trials on three standard mannequins in size 48, 52, and 56 and judged by experienced assessors. The data obtained were statistically analyzed to identify effect of knitting structure, fabric thickness, bursting strength, stitch length, blending ratio, and yarn count on fit and fabric appearance and visually acceptance when stretching.
7. Results for knitted fabrics testing indicated that knitting structure has a significant impact on fabric thickness; it was also found that the fabrics with the same structure knitted using short loop length are thicker and gives higher fabric bursting strength values and air permeability of the fabric decreased remarkably. For the yarn count the fabrics knitted with finer yarn count are thinner, gives the lowest fabric bursting strength value while air permeability of the fabric increased.
8. For Aldrich basic fitting blocks, the most influential factor in its fitting was the fabric knitting structure, it is also had a significant impact on the garment ability for stretching during wear.
9. Yarn count, stitch length and blending ratio in the same knitting structure have effected on the garment ability for stretching during wear, while have no effects on Aldrich basic blocks fitting.
10. The relation between the fitting ease and fabric bursting strength is inversely proportional as well as the relationship with the fabric weight and thickness.
This research is divided into main five chapters:
In chapter one; literature review contains two parts, First part, weft knitted fabrics and machines are given. Second part, knitted garments fit & blocks.
In chapter two; aim of the work.
In chapter three; a detailed explanation for the experimental work .
In chapter four ; Results of the statistical analysis showed with appropriate discussion.
In chapter five; conclusion drawn from experimental results and recommendations for further works are given.